Day
1:
Saturday
22nd December 2018
Booking hotels and flight
I’ve always wanted to go to Istanbul for a long time. Heard so many nice things about it, especially after my mother had visited in summer 2018. So, come winter 2018 (yeah, I know cold time!) I had the opportunity to go along with my wife.
I was searching for a hotel across various websites such as Booking and Hotels. I found Hotel Anthemis with a 100% positive review from customers, found the location to be particularly good, decent price. So, booked it.
Flying
off!
We flew from London Stansted Airport. It was quite cold. Although it was early morning, the airport was quite busy. After checking in we waited at the gates. The officials checked my passport and saw that it was almost expiring! After deliberating between themselves, they allowed me to fly out as the passport was still within date. Phew!
Looking
for our driver
The journey didn’t take too long surprisingly, and we eventually landed into Sabiha Gokçen airport in Istanbul. We had to pray and then find our driver whom we had booked in advance. It was rather difficult, as I didn’t have a local sim card and relied on low signal internet connections to WhatsApp the driver. Amongst the various taxis and trying to communicate to him (he didn’t speak English) he found us eventually. I was quite impressed with his car, it was a Mercedes-Benz Vito 8-seater, just for the two of us!
Our driver, Metin, communicated with us through Google Translates, gave us some refreshments and was generally very-kind throughout our journey. We travelled from the Asian side of Turkey to the Europe side via a ferry (so basically, we went from Europe to Asia to Europe!). We didn’t need to leave our vehicle whilst on the ferry.
Booking into the hotel
After one and a half hours drive, we reached the back of our hotel, called Hotel Anthemis (I’ve shared some information about it below). As soon as the driver parked up, a worker from the hotel rushed out and grabbed our bags. At the reception, the gentleman then says ‘Hello Mr. Rahman’ upon which I replied, ‘How did you know it’s me?’ ‘I know my customers’ he replied laughing and carried on processing us.
Night stroll
Although we reached our hotel well after Esha salah, we wanted to make the most of it so went for a stroll around the Sultanahmet area where the famous Blue Mosque also known as Sultanahmet Camii (named after an Ottoman Sultan) is located. It was our first time seeing the Masjid, so we were excited. Although it was locked up for the night, walking around it was good enough. We also saw the Aya Sofya (since our visit it had been re-converted into a Masjid, Alhamdulillah).
We bought some dinner from the local shops and then after a little while went to bed.
Day 2:
Sunday
23rd December 2018
Breakfast buffet
We woke up early and had a lovely buffet breakfast. MashaAllah, the breakfast was served on the rooftop with a beautiful view of the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sofya and the Bosphorous. The sun was rising so the view was even more beautiful! There weren’t many people for breakfast
Visiting Topkapi Palace
At the reception we got a map of notable places around Istanbul which had really helped us a lot. First stop, we decided to go to the famous Topkapi Palace Museum. This used to be the official residence of Ottoman Sultans since the time of Sultan Mehmed II (Muhammad Al-Fatih).
We didn’t really know which was to exactly go. Following some signs which were thankfully in English, we came across the grand Topkapi Palace which was only a few minutes from our hotel. Unknown to us, we entered the grounds of the palace through the wrong gates where two guards were standing with rifles! But they smiled and gave salams to us and welcomed us in. We reached a ticket booth, bought tickets, and went into the Palace. It wasn’t busy at all as we came early in the day.
We walked through the gates which was used by the sultans and royal families for hundreds of years. We saw the gardens that they would once frequent.
We
first came across a part of the palace which was used as the royal kitchen.
There were several small buildings made of bricks, each with chimneys. Glass
boxes contained pots and pans used during the last hundreds of years during the
times of various sultans.
I
was particularly keen to see those used by one of my favourite sultans, Abdul
Hamid II.
There was a small Masjid here too, where the workers would pray their salah, MashaAllah. Taking photos was prohibited in this area, so unfortunately, I was only able to take photos of the outside.
The courtyard was tranquil. It led us to a marble building with a dome. This was used as a place to read Qur’an and Ahadith. May Allah reward them for their dedication the Qur’an and Ahadith, Aameen.
We then visited a small Masjid that overlooks the Bosphorus river. Although it wasn’t salah time, we went in and had a quick look. An uncle was sitting in the front reading the Qur’an, may Allah bless him, Aameen.
The internal architecture is beautiful. We saw various rooms which the sultans once occupied.
One of the buildings I was looking forward to is the place that held the blessed relics of the Prophet Sallallahu Alyhiwasallam. Taking photos is prohibited here. The building holds various swords and turbans etc of the Prophet, his companions; clothes belonging to Fatima RadhiAllahuAnha and her sons etc. There’s also a turban which is attributed to Prophet Yusuf Alyhiwasallam. Allah knows best.
After strolling along the gardens, left. We spent a good three hours here but would go back to explore again inshaAllah.
Visiting Suleiymanye Camii
After a short walk around the Aya Sofya, we decided to visit the famous Suleiymanye Camii. This was built by Sultan Suleiyman.
We took the tram from Sultanahmet to an area called Beyazit. It was a short ride or around 5-8 mins. From there we looked at our GPS and map to look for the exact location of the Masjid. An uncle who was selling musk nearby approached us and asked if we needed help. Despite not knowing each other’s language, he pointed us towards Suleiymanye Masjid. We went passed the Istanbul University.
We found Suleiymanye Camii. It was a beautiful building, similar design to most Masajid in Turkey but had its own unique features. Whilst we were there, there was a dars going on where both men and women attended.
The courtyard is also as beautiful where one can go for a stroll, enjoy the atmosphere etc. I paid a visit to the grave of Sultan Suleiyman and other Muslims in the graveyard.
We spent a few hours here too. Whilst in the area we popped over to a shop called Virginia Angus we served grass fed angus burgers!
After praying Maghrib salah, we left the Masjid and headed back to our hotel and ate our dinner. We finished off the night with Esha at another Masjid called Firuz Aga Camii which was right in front of our hotel. This was a small Masjid. It was convenient to just pop in there to pray. Visitors are also allowed to go inside this Masjid.
Day 3:
Monday 24th December 2018
The
Grand Bazaar
We decided to head over to the famous Grand Bazaar in Beyazit area. Although we could have walked there, we took the tram. It’s the experience that counts!
Grand Bazaar is Called Kapali çarşı (something like that!) in Turkish. It's an indoor market where you can literally get lost in. There are shops selling anything and everything you want and need. From magnets, pillow cases, soaps, hats, scarves etc.
We came here early in the day when it wasn't so busy. Apparently, there's 4000 shops and 250,000 people visit it each day!
It's like a maze, going into one alley to another. It's got a nice vibe, beautiful products on sale.
We went to a shop which a nice brother called Cahagir runs. He sells ceramics, cups and other items. The brother kindly sold us some cups we liked, though it came as a set, he gave us individual pieces. Once we paid he said "this will bring Barakah inshaAllah ".
It's a must visit when one goes to Istanbul. You can buy the famous Kayi hats from here, the cheapest we bought one for was 35tl.
After resting in the hotel, we went to visit the Basilica Cistern.
The Basilica
Cistern
Erm... didn't like
this one much!
This
is where water used to be collected for the city, during the Byzantine time.
When Muslims took over, due to water being stagnant, the water was used to
water the gardens of the Palace. (Ok one interesting fact!).
The place was smelly and dark. There's honestly not much to do but to walk around. In one corner there's two heads of the Greek mythical character, Medusa.
It's an experience, nevertheless. One can only admire at the great architecture that went behind the works of building the cistern.
Shopping in Arasta Bazaar
This is an old but small bazaar, with a few sets of shops selling usual items such as bags, hats, ceramic tiles, spices etc.
It's located near the Sultan Ahmet Camii. Away from the usual hustle and bustle. We bought couple of items from here. It's worth a visit.
Day
4:
Tuesday
25th December 2018
The Aya Sofya (Grand Mosque)
This day was our busiest day! First, we headed to the Aya Sofya. As we went early, we didn’t have to queue up for long. The Aya Sofya was first a church during the Byzantine time. The Muslims took over Constantinople and converted the building into a Masjid. Some historians say that the Sultan Mehmed II bought the building before the conversion. Then in the 1900s Mustafa Kemal converted it into a museum.
We spent a couple of hours in Aya Sofya, secretly praying for it to become a Masjid again!
Alhamdulillah in 2020 President Erdogan changed it back to a Masjid.
Spice
Bazaar
After Aya Sofya, we headed to an area called Eminonu a short tram ride from Sultanahmet. Here we visited the Spice Bazaar which is also known as the Egyptian Bazaar. It holds around 40-50 shops mostly selling spices as well as Turkish delights etc.
Galata Bridge and Galata Tower
We then walked over the Galata Bridge where some fishermen were fishing. Our intention was to go to the Galata Tower. We could see it ahead of us but had to navigate between various uphill roads and buildings.
The Galata Tower is another famous landmark of Istanbul. A lot of history is associated with the tower. It was used as a prison once and also in 1630-1632, Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi flew as an early intercontinental aviator using artificial wings for gliding from this tower over the Bosphorus to the slopes of Üsküdar on the Anatolian side.
The tower was used to spot fires in the city, but Qadrullah it was destroyed in fires a couple of times.
We had a rough idea where the Galata Tower was, but it took a bit of twisting and turning, going uphill and through narrow roads to get there.
The tower itself looks beautiful. You must acknowledge the architecture.
We
went up the tower using the lift and I have to say being right at the top, I
found it very scary - I'm scared of heights!
You get a 360° view of Istanbul, the Bosphorus and Golden Horn. There is a restaurant at the top, but it is quite expensive. It's an experience, nevertheless not on my list for next time though!
Conqueror of Constantinople
After leaving the tower we headed back to Sultanahmet and then took a tram from there to Aksaray. We wanted to go to the famous Fatih Camii, where Sultan Mehmed II was buried. We first popped into the Valide Sultan Camii to pray. Then used our GPS and walked quite a bit towards Fatih Camii.
There was a quite different feeling here. Some of my friends told me that Fatih area in general is more religious than other areas of Istanbul. When we arrived, there was a Janazah that took place. We joined it. Afterwards we looked around the Masjid marvelling at its architecture.
I also visited the grave of Sultan Mehmed II or as we like to say Muhammad Al Fatih. I didn’t know that he was buried there at the time until I learnt about it later.
We left the Masjid and decided to head back to Sultanahmet area. Due to not knowing about local transport, we walked quite a bit to the Aksaray tram station. On the way we saw Valens Aqueduct, Aviation Martyrs monument and Sultan Mehmed II memorial.
The lighthouse
Back in Sultanahmet we still had some daylight left so checked out the Ahmet fountain near the Aya Sofya. On the map given to us by our hotel, there was a lighthouse marked along the coast, walking distance from our hotel.
We decided to look. We went passed the main gates of the Topkapi Palace, marveling at the amazing outer walls of the palace. Some of the hotels nearby were built on the walls of the palace!
Thanks to our GPS we knew which way to go, through small roads, away from the hustle and bustle. The roads here were incredibly quiet.
This lighthouse concept was from the time of Sultan Osman II, after a ship run aground. He personally helped rescue the crew on board. One of the ship workers complained about the difficulty of navigating in the sea and suggested a lighthouse be built. This was in the year 1755. A light fueled by olive oil was established by the Kapudan Pasha atop a watchtower of the city's walls at this location Sultan Abdülmecid I then ordered the building of a lighthouse in 1857.
Alhamdulillah, we made it onto the main road where the lighthouse is located. It was a nice experience, seeing a lighthouse up close for the first time, near the sea with waves hitting rocks.
This is a working lighthouse MashaAllah, which is good as a lot of boats and ships use the sea.
Due to Salah time approaching, we couldn't spend too much time here. It was quite cold and wet too.
We ended the day with dinner and praying Esha at Atik Ali Camii.
Day
5
26th
December 2018:
The host of the Prophet Sallallahu Alyhiwasallam
Today we decided to go to an area called Eyup Sultan. The main reason why we came to Istanbul. The famous Sahabi Abu Ayyub Ansari RadhiAllah Anhu is buried here. He was famous for hosting Rasulullah Sallallahu Alyhiwasallam when the prophet first came to Madinah.
Abu Ayyub Ansari RadhiAllah Anhu came to Turkey on an expedition. He fell ill and died here. The famous Sultan Mehmed II also known as Muhammad Al-Fatih heard about Abu Ayyub Ansari RadhiAllah Anhu being buried in Istanbul, so he ordered for the grave to be located and a Masjid was built here.
We took the tram from Sultanahmet to Eminonou and then the bus 99A which stops just outside the compound of the Eyup Sultan Camii. The bus ride took 20-25 minutes. Thanks to our hotel staff for giving us the direction. Bus ride for two people cost 2.60tl each way per person.
This was the most populated Masjid we came across in Istanbul. There was a different feeling here.
People seem more religious; we saw a security guard busy in doing Zikr. Nearby there are shops selling Islamic items including Zam Zam Water as well as many Kayi hats, that are worn due to the cold.
Cable cars
We heard about Cable Cars situated near the Eyup Sultan Camii. There was a big map near the Masjid, so we looked at it and headed for the cable cars. We went the wrong way!
Instead of going to the bottom of the hill we ended up going to the top. It was an uphill struggle. We passed various places such as shops, Masajid and even small neighbourhood. In one area we saw chickens roaming the small streets! We somehow ended up in a graveyard! May Allah bless the deceased with His Mercy, Aameen.
We got to the cable cars finally at a place called Pierre Lotti. Getting lost was a good idea as we were now at the top of the hill going down. The views were breathtaking. Small islands can be seen.
There's couple of shops and cafes at the top of this hill but rather pricey.
We got on the cable cars at the price of 2.60tl each and made it to the bottom Alhamdulillah. The trip was just a few minutes. I didn't like the fact that it went above some graves whilst descending. We then headed back to Eyup Sultan Camii for Salatul Zuhr.
Maghrib at Nuru Osmaniye Camii
After coming back to Sultanahmet area, we visited another beautiful Masjid in Istanbul. We were recommended to visit here by some friends.
It has similar deco to the other Masajid; however, the exterior has slight differences in the designs too. It's located at one of the entrances of the Grand Bazaar, walking distance from Sultanahmet area.
We spent a bit of time looking around. Many non-Muslim visitors come here too.
Near our hotel there was a cafe called Poika. We both loved this place due to its deco and service. I had a Turkish tea and wife had Turkish coffee. We had visited it a couple of times during our trip.
Day 6 Last Day
27th
December 2018:
Visiting the Turkish and Islamic Art museum
It was our last day,
so we decided to make the most of what we have. This is a hidden gem. Unlike
the Aya Sofya and Topkapi, not many people visit this place.
We came across it whilst taking a walk. The building used to be a palace of one of the sultan's son in-law. It's located opposite the Blue Mosque.
The museum holds a lot of arts, pottery, carpets etc some going back to empires such as Ayyubid, Seljuk and of course Ottoman.
I really liked how they had the history of the empires that ruled especially Turkey, with a timeline in various rooms.
What really stood out for us was the 'Sacred Relics' room. This section holds old Kiswahs and keys from the Kabah as well as surprisingly the hair of the Prophet Sallallahu Alyhiwasallam. It was such an amazing experience as they play Salawat in the background, getting you in the mood.
Highly recommend this museum. We'll be going again inshaAllah the next time we are in Istanbul.
Unfortunately, there's restriction in taking photos in most parts of the museum so we couldn't take much.
The old Aya Sofya Mosque
We then popped into a small Masjid which was then known as the Aya Sofya Camii. We prayed Zuhr here and once again it was packed.
Though small, it had the traditional mimbar. It’s located near the entrance to the Topkapi Palace Museum. I believe this Masjid is now closed in place of the bigger Aya Sofya Kebir Camii aka Aya Sofya/Hagia Sophia.
Stroll through Gulhane Park
We then took a stroll through Gulhane Park, one of the largest parks in Istanbul which used to be part of the Topkapi Palace. It was a nice park, despite being in the winter. A couple of police officers of horses went by us giving us greetings.
Final hours
Finally, we visited the Molla Fenare Camii. This was the last Masjid we prayed in, in Istanbul. Unlike many of the other Masajid, the design of this Masjid is completely different. It was an old and small building.
We didn't realise it was a Masjid until we took a walk one day and saw old signs. Its named after a sufi who used to live nearby.
MashaAllah the people were nice enough to show us the lady’s side which was hidden away inside.
Once again, like any of the other Masajid we visited, it was fully packed during the Jamah.
I contacted our driver to take us to the airport. A little while later he informed me that he had a car accident and was sending another driver to us. I was afraid of being late for our flight, but Alhamdulillah another drive did come.
We went to the airport, via the ferry in which this time we did get out and look around. It was very windy!
Alhamdulillah, we checked in, bought some dinner, flew out and landed in London in the late hours. Came home to lovely homecooked food made by my brother and sister in-law.
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