REVIEW: Two Weeks In Pakistan

 

Whenever I travel, I like to bring a book along, whether it’s a long journey on a train or just a ride on the bus. Recently, we planned a trip from London to Manchester to visit a relative on my in-laws' side and explore the city. For this journey, I finally picked up Two Weeks in Pakistan, a travelogue by Mufti Muhammad ibn Adam al-Kawthari. I’d got it about a year ago but hadn’t yet found the time to read it.

The author, often referred to as Mufti ibn Adam, is the son of the late Shaykh Hazrat Maulana Adam Lunat Sahib of Leicester. I had the honor of visiting Maulana Adam's home just a week before he passed away, where his eldest son, Maulana Ahmad, welcomed us warmly with Ajwa dates and Zamzam water. 

In this book, Mufti ibn Adam recounts his visit to Pakistan during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. As someone who holds Pakistan dear to my heart—despite never having visited—it felt special to read this account. My parents grew up in East Pakistan before it gained independence as Bangladesh in 1971, so the connection is personal.

Mufti ibn Adam is someone I admire greatly, having attended many of his lectures in my younger days. I even met him briefly at a private gathering but was too shy to speak to him! MashAllah, he looks as he did 20 years ago—may Allah preserve him. Ameen.

I read half the book on the journey to Manchester and finished it on the way back to London. Due to the interesting anecdotes, I even read a portion whilst in my hotel room.

The book focuses largely on Shaykhul Islam Mufti Muhammad Taqi Usmani, the head of Jāmi‘ah Dār al-‘Ulūm Karachi, one of the most renowned Islamic seminaries in the world, with approximately 10,000 students.

Mufti Taqi Usmani needs no introduction. As the son of the late Grand Mufti of Pakistan, Hazrat Mufti Muhammad Shafi Usmani (Rahimahullah), his contributions to Islamic scholarship are unmatched. I once had the privilege of assisting him at an event, and his warmth and smile made me feel as though he’d known me for years.

In the book, Mufti ibn Adam vividly describes the Madrasah. Established in 1951 by Mufti Shafi (Rahimahullah), the institution is almost like a self-contained city, or as Mufti ibn Adam calls it, a "walled city." The compound includes a grand masjid, classrooms, separate facilities for male and female students, schools, a library, hostels, administration offices, dining halls, residential areas for staff, a bank, a medical clinic, a post office, playing fields, and even a park for women and children.

The grand masjid’s single minaret is replicates that of Masjid An-Nabawi in Madinah, and its gates are named after female companions like Ummul Mu'minin A’isha and our beloved Fatima (RadhiAllahu Anhuma). The Madrasah even has its own cemetery, where notable figures like thec late Junaid Jamshed (Rahimahullah) are buried.

The book also details Mufti Taqi Usmani’s daily schedule: reviewing fatwas, corresponding with students and organisations, attending online meetings, and offering advice to various departments. It’s remarkable how much he accomplishes in a single day. Yet he found the time to dedicate to Mufti ibn Adam and his friend, which was beautiful. 

Mufti ibn Adam also writes about other scholars he met during his trip, such as Mufti Muhammad Rafi Usmani (Rahimahullah), the elder brother of Mufti Taqi, who sadly passed away in 2022. He highlights many other madrasahs in Karachi and even mentions Shaykh Mufti Abdul Mannan Khan from Bangladesh, a senior teacher and deputy Mufti at Dār al-‘Ulūm Karachi. It’s heartening to see a Bangladeshi scholar holding such a prominent position in Pakistan, reminding us that Islam transcends national and racial divides.

Throughout the book, Mufti ibn Adam shares glimpses of his close bond with Mufti Taqi Usmani, giving readers a rare insight into the life and personality of this great scholar. It’s humbling to read about such moments, which feel like a gift to the readers. I felt like I'm in Mufti Taqi's company too whilst reading.

I really liked Mufti ibn Adam's own humility throughout the book, which is commendable, especially for a scholar of his stature. 

I highly recommend Two Weeks in Pakistan—it’s an inspiring and enriching read. The book is free but is also available as a PDF online, making it accessible to everyone.